My trip today to the Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn’s mini-Metropolitan, involved skipping floors one through three (plus a long, longing look at the closed doors with the signs “Warhol Exhibition Installation in Progress,” a teaser for the Andy Warhol: The Last Decade exhibit opening next week) as I traipsed up to the fourth floor, home of the Elizabeth A. Sackler Center for Feminist Art, Contemporary Art and Decorative Arts, which includes the rebuilt Jan Martense Schenck House, built out in the rural boonies of Brooklyn in 1626, plus period rooms from plantation homes from the Carolinas, the exotic and lush “Moorish Room,” donated to the Museum by John J. Rockefeller, Jr., as well as the two current exhibitions, and the catalyst of my trip today: Kiki Smith: Sojourn and American High Style: Fashioning a National Identity.
Smith is a New York (East Village) legend, and daughter of Tony Smith, the abstract sculptor whose minimalist aesthetic informed much for her work. Using non-traditional mediums, her works often look at women, fairy tales, myths, bodies, the domestic sphere, life, death and belief systems. Sojourn is a quiet, other-worldly series of galleries, filled with papier-mache sculptures, color prints, ink and graphite drawings on crinkly Nepal paper, painted flowers on antique mirrors, seemingly melting, biomorphic furniture that you wouldn’t trust to sit on and blunt, simple, stacked coffins. The faint palette is enforced mostly with the cream-colored crinkly paper, on which women—sisters, expectant mothers, teenagers, dreamy alter egos—have been flatly, yet powerfully, rendered (their lack of naturalism in no way reduces their presence; their smooth gazes pulsate with a strong, profound richness). The women seem ordinary, dressed in jeans and casual clothing, pretty or conventional features, but none striking. They are drawn seated dreamily by windows, (the compositions are oriented by tile or hardwood floors) or staring bluntly out at their audience, primed to speak, engage or scream. Domestic preoccupations seem to stifle the creativity that these women are desperate to unleash: light bulbs and birds are images seen throughout, the former aglow with mica and glitter, yet trapped behind heavy birdcages, and ardent songs escape from sparrows, yet nothing can be heard. Not only do their songs seem ready to soar, but the birds do too, though, image after image, the birds are trapped, grounded, contained. Similarly, the screams of many of the women seem seconds from the surface, but remain bottled within.
In the next room, American High Style, is mainly two large galleries of fantastic sartorial creations, documenting trends in women’s fashions from the mid-1800s to the 1980s, and reveals a very different side of the female experience. A Halston tie-dye caftan, cut from a single length of fabric, a Matisse leaf print cutout-inspired blue and cream tank dress, George Braques’ Cubist works-inspired dinner dresses by Gilbert Adrian, Lauren Bacall’s 1955 black sequin party dress, designed by Norman Norell, and many, many more, do their best to dilute the pain of the female experience realized in Smith’s exhibit, and instead celebrate the glitz and glamour associated with being a woman. The collection is largely comprised from donations made by the fabulous Austine Hearst, a high society lady whose audacious personal style definitely seemed to pull off the avant-garde beauties. Her blue and silver sequin 1959 Marguery Bolhagen ballgown, worn to JFK’s inaugural ball, is proudly on display, and is a breath-taking highlight of the exhibition.
Other alluring highlights are the long-sleeved, high-neck cotton and cellophane Valentina evening gown, similar to the one that the designer made for Katharine Hepburn in The Philadelphia Story; a smart, sophisticated navy and white Madama Eta Hentz rayon dress with a dramatic interlocking wing motif shooting vertically down the side and a 1938 Elsa Schiaparelli (my personal favorite who won by eternal devotion when I first saw her work at the Cooper-Hewitt Fashion in Colors exhibit in 2006) black velvet evening dress with a sunburst patterned from silk and gold lame, pearlescent and intricate sequin and bead embroidery. A hunting jacket-inspired coat of Elsa Schiaparelli’s cheekily uses recycled bullet casings as buttons, and a simple summer dress has polychrome seed jacket appliqués and a exposed zipper down the back (a huge trend since fall 2008). A way-pre-DVF wraparound dress is made from two half dresses, ingeniously tied together to make a whole, reversible ensemble. (Speaking of current trends, also on display is a 1920 blue velvet and ivory satin with silk floss Chihuahua dog coat and leash.)
From Schiaparelli’s contemporary, J. Suzanne Talbot, comes a sari-esque rust silk crepe sheath with a well-balanced daisy pattern, a look that perfectly blends exoticism, athleticism and feminism. A striking display of traditional Castilian folk costume, updated by one Mister Cristobal Balenciaga, is a tiered black lace and white silk organza confection, worthy of a Penelope Cruz Oscar speech. An Yves Saint Laurent piece, from his first year at the helm of Christian Dior’s house, is a memorable, black, ruffly party dress in the exact style that Diane Kruger wears to nearly every red carpet event. Next to it, a cocktail dress is designed with looser lines, a turning point from Dior’s famous “New Look” and a look toward the budding athletic trend.
Several displays are dedicated to the designs of Charles James, America’s “first couturier,” including a dramatic mermaid dress made of ivory silk, beige faille and black silk velvet.
The Four-Leaf Clover dress, one of Austine Hearst’s gorgeous frocks.